“Aimo e Nadia” is the miracle (…) with a succulent menu, fanciful, never the same. Next to the great plates, you’ll find, oh gosh, dishes of an age-old tradition and most serious Italian regional cooking.
Edoardo Raspelli – Corriere d’Informazione, 25 gennaio 1979
Here (…) the glories of healthy, subdued, fanciful, full of flavours (…) The menu (…) is a miracle of equilibrium: a small number of starters, a few chosen first and second plates, selected desserts, but all in a phantasmagoria of suggestions.
Edoardo Raspelli – Corriere d’Informazione, 12 November, 1980
(…) Aimo: With enthusiasm, almost fury, I invent new dishes that are not at all extravagant or too sophisticated, but simply creations that are inspired by the great Tuscan traditions. This means carefully selecting the ingredients one by one, from tomatoes to garlic, from olive oil to beans; growing vegetables or particular aromatic herbs, or having them grown if not available; mixing simple with precious ingredients without pre-conceptions. Aimo’s wife, Nadio gives shape to these mixtures, spirit to these creations.
Marco Guarnaschelli Gotti – Panorama, 8 June, 1981
Genuine ingredients and respect for traditions
The magical secret of this restaurant seems to consist in the perfect choice of the ingredients (…) treated according to their exact regional traditions, above all, those of Tuscany. Every tradition is truly reborn through experimental: out of this, a most personal , often unique and unrepeatable, way of cooking was born. (…) The freshest and most delicate vegetal spices that Nature provides are here chosen and combined, whether raw or cooked, into special dishes that reveal the original pleasant miscellany of flavours. Besides the commonly used spices, others from a more restricted area are chosen. It happens, for example, that the often-forgotten ‘lemon verbena’ plant is used to give flavour, if not marked, yet pleasant, to certain sauces and some types of salad.
La cucina italiana, September 1981
Seated with them, amongst various dished and wines, one discovers the cultural dimensions of good food, of combinations, flavours, of the joy for life. (…) Their philosophy for eating is simple and complete: “In tradition, there is everything; the entire history of man through his food. Yet, the tradition must renew itself, must be reborn in continuation, in order to live … and this is what we are seeking to do.”
Leo Avellis – Vini e liquori, October 1982
Experts of the restaurant and food sectors are engaging in a lively discussion, both practical and theoretic, as to what should be the future line of development for Italian cuisine. Should we follow a straight-forward path (and adaptation) based upon the best of our traditions, whether ‘common’ or ‘refined’ in taste … or should we embark with no reserve upon an unknown road towards novelty, invention, and without being embarrassed at the rediscovering of the historic or the regional, or one corresponding to pre-existent models . (…) According to me, there is a correct way to act for those who concentrate on certain restaurants (…) (as, for example) Aimo e Nadia.
Marco Guarnaschelli Gotti – Panorama, 10 May 1982
(…) A cuisine which, by its own choice, has little to do with any of the Italian regions (…),
but one whose strengths derives from the richness and variety of primary ingredients to be found in Italy. “French cuisine is great because it is backed by a worthy tradition centuries old,” Aimo tells us. “What, the, is our culinary history? It is that of those dozen restaurants along the road where the farmer’s wife, after having taken care of her garden, served her salad and chicken to her neighbour. This took place in all of Italy, and thousands of diverse paths that form our past, form our traditions. I only wish to propose this tradition again, yet adequately reinvented.” The challenge is not a small one… that of creating an Italian cuisine, a national cuisine, a long-held dream.
Viva Milano – (1982)
Stage actors (perhaps still those from what we call ‘a theatre of words’) often found themselves discussing the ides of whether it is possible to understand the potential of a great actor by the way he says the most banal of all lines, let’s say: “Dinner is served!” Often, I asked myself if and how it was possible to use this refined paradox for gastronomy: the real problem is in finding a simple cuisine undertaking of modest proportions to apply to this theatrical maxim. It is probable that a culinary mini-gesture by which one might recognize a potential star of the kitchen could be based upon a choice made: choosing one type of butter from ten possibilities, or searching for the perfect tomato, or a most adapt bean (…) . If a person has the right nose, taste buds and the intuition to make the right choice, this means he has a quality which cannot be taught: the rest depends on him alone. I understood that I was standing before one of the few geniuses of Italian cooking when Aimo Moroni had me taste a soup made of squashed tomatoes, olive oil, a smattering of herbs and bread croutons.
Marco Guarnaschelli Gotti – Panorama, 13 June 1983
Q: Is there within you a continuous search for perfection?
A: I believe the term is better adapted to something mathematical, or mechanical, to something cold which does not rhyme with cuisine (…) If perfection exists, then it is due to the quality of the original ingredients, to the importance that the dish must have when presented in such a way that we mirror ourselves in it. Added to this perfection, we must pay heed to the service, to the exact cooking techniques. There must be more love than perfection in the preparation of the food: each plate is presented with enthusiasm, as so it must be as our cuisine lives in relationship with our clients, who must always fell at their ease, treated by friends, as friends.
Q: Just how mechanical can the making of a plate be?
A: Nothing at all. One needs to always have the capacity to know how to modify, even when before a plate already experimented thousands of times. The preparations result as being different according to the original ingredients available that day. From here, we can estimate the sensibility of the professional (…).
Dora Ravanelli – Il ristorante, 27 March, 1987
(…) Theirs is a cuisine of difficult simplicity: the domestic matrix of certain preparations should not be shrouded in mystery because the apparent goodness and simplicity does not imply profound myths or mysteries of the Italian gastronomic civilization. Aimo and Nadia have, in fact, the gift of taking from the banality of the everyday recipes worn down by time, proposing them again with measured humility, obtaining extraordinary results, foods and flavours of great simplicity, using them in unusual ways and blends, though never bizarre, and always within the spheres of a symphony of typically Italian tastes.
Renato Fiorentini – Bargiornale, July 1987